Island hopping in the middle of Norway

Island hopping in the middle of Norway – Namdalen

Who says island hopping is reserved for the Mediterranean? Along the coast of Namdalen you will find an island paradise where you can hop from island to island, paddle to white sand beaches, hike in red mountains unlike anything else in Europe, and enjoy locally sourced food straight from sea and soil. Namdalen is not Greece. It’s wilder, calmer, and full of authentic charm characteristic to this region.

Leka. foto: ellen homstad

Jøa

Author Olav Duun said it best: this is the land in the fairy tales. The moment you stroll off the ferry at Seierstad, you will notice that life slows down a little. Still, the island buzzes with exciting travel opportunities, and as Kevin Skjærvik, the manager at Faksdal Brygge, put it when we arrived at the pier: “Jøa is going to be the new Lofoten.”

This charming island just outside Namsos has a rich history, lush nature, and welcoming hosts. A road circles the island, but the best way to explore Jøa is by bike. This lets you explore the side roads, follow forest trails, and get up close to local wildlife. Stop by the Iron Age farm Janheim, go for a swim at Fosnesvågen, and don’t miss the idyllic cycle path through the forest from Brakstad to Fosnes.

Jøa stairs. foto: ellen homstad

The Jøa stairs

This popular hike takes you to the top of Ramnfjellet, with views that get better with every step. We parked our bikes at Brakstadvågen and started the hike from there. After a few hundred metres of boardwalk leading into the forest, you’ll reach the stairs winding up the mountain. There are several rest areas and viewpoints along the way that offer a perfect excuse to catch your breath. The staircase is wide and well secured with sturdy railings, which ensures a safe and enjoyable experience in any weather. After 932 steps, you’ve arrived at the top, with a spectacular view over the coast and ocean. The hike takes about an hour, but take your time to admire the scenery, snap some photos, and enjoy a well-earned coffee break. For a longer adventure, start from Svarvan and follow Eventyrstien, “the fairytale trail”. This route is 5 km.

In recent years, several great restaurants have popped up on the island. The food scene is diverse, but what they all share is a deep love for local ingredients and quality in every detail.

Bedehuset bar og bistro

A 1950’s “prayer house” with a cosy yet cool vibe. We dropped by for lunch, and there’s no question that their fish and chips is the best north of London. The kitchen uses ingredients from the farm, the sea, and the local area. The venue also regularly hosts events like intimate concerts, quizzes, and gourmet evenings. It is also available for private bookings if you are looking for a place to host your event.

foto: ellen homstad

Faksdal Brygge

A charming, newly renovated 150-year-old pier that has become a natural gathering place on the island. We sat outside in the sun with amazing food and drinks, and felt that life simply couldn’t get much better. Guest docking is available if you arrive by boat or kayak. In addition to delicious food and friendly hosts, Faksdal Brygge hosts many events worth checking out, such as the Midsummer festival

Matgarasjen på Dun Gård

Happy food tastes better. That’s the core philosophy at what quickly became one of my favourite restaurants. Here you will be warmly welcomed by Sissel and Ola, who are passionate about their animals, the land, and the food they serve. The farm practices quality at every step, from soil to plate, with a strong focus on organic and local ingredients. They also offer accommodation in Dun feriehus (holiday house), a charming farmstead reminiscent of a cozy grandmother’s home.

foto: ellen homstad

Fosnes Præstegård Bryggeri

The microbrewery Fjøsti is open Saturdays “before and after barn time,” in a farm dating back to 1254. Here you’ll find local brews and simple snacks. The barn has become a social hub, so if you come here alone, chances are you’ll leave with new friends. You can also stay overnight in the old priest’s residence on the property, which offers 11 beds spread across 7 rooms.

All foto: foto: ellen homstad

Segelsund

After a full day of adventure, we arrived at Segelsund, which we very quickly discovered was a perfect place to unwind. This cozy farm is a true summer paradise and home to many typical (and not-so-typical) farm animals. We stayed in the guesthouse, a recently renovated treasure trove filled with second-hand gems, where each room has its own personality and story. One of the highlights, besides getting a kiss from Terje the llama, was the breakfast. Local ingredients in combination with the magical morning light on Jøa was a fantastic way to start the day.

Kayak to Bøle

Jøa should also be experienced from the sea. We wrapped up our stay with a kayak trip to the islets north of the island. Paddle out to white beaches on Bøle, Nordøyholmen, and Skogøya. It’s a perfect summer activity for both families and adventurers.

foto: ellen homstad

Himmelhøy treetop cabin

You don’t get much closer to nature than spending the night in the treetops. The Himmelhøy treetop cabin gave us the chance to be fully present in nature, while enjoying quality time as a group of friends to play cards, go for hikes, and row out onto the lake with a fishing rod. Located 30 km northwest of Namsos, this treetop retreat is ideal for summer adventures in the sun, or cuddling up with a good crime novel and a cup of tea on rainy autumn days.

Kjeksvika beach

On our drive to Rørvik, we decided to take a detour via Abelvær, a small fishing village along the coast. Just before you arrive at the village, you’ll find a beach perfect for lazy summer days. This is Kjeksvika, a beautiful beach that draws both locals and visitors during the summer months. If you’re feeling brave, take a refreshing dip in the azure-blue sea. You’ll also find a volleyball net, a shelter, and a designated firepit. To get there, park at Aunet and follow the marked trail for 1 kilometer. If you’re keen to explore the area by kayak, consider joining a guided tour with Explore Ytre Namdal.

foto: ellen homstad

Sør-Gjæslingan

Small fishing village

Far out at sea lies an idyllic fishing village where time seems to stand still. Welcome to Sør-Gjæslingan. A hundred years ago, this island group was bustling with fishermen. Today, it’s a tranquil holiday spot where you can unwind and connect with the weather, nature, and history. During our stay, we learned about the old ways of life in the village, explored neighboring islets, and befriended goats, goslings, and countless seagulls. We stayed overnight in the idyllic Naustloftet, a traditional boathouse cabin from the heyday of the fishing village. A visit isn’t complete without a walk to Nakken, the island’s highest point, which offers panoramic views over the archipelago and village. It’s one of my all time favourite viewpoints for sunset.

Leka

No trip along the coast of Namdalen is complete without a visit to Leka. Standing among the reddish-orange mountains on the northwest side of the island, we had to double-check the map. Were we really in Trøndelag and not Colorado or Kazakhstan? The geology here is so unique that the island has been designated a national monument and is part of the Trollfjell UNESCO Global Geopark, along with Vega, Brønnøy, and Sømna.

Leka Brygge

Right by the waterfront on the island’s east side, Leka Brygge is the perfect base for island life, adventure, and relaxation. We checked into one of the new, modern fisherman’s cabins with views straight out to sea, and couldn’t have asked for a better place to explore Leka from. Whether you want to unwind with slow summer days, head out on foot or by bike, or gather your friends for active days on the water, you’ll find everything you need here. E-bikes, kayaks, and SUP boards are available for rent.

foto: ellen homstad

Lekamøya

One of the island’s most iconic hikes is the trail to the legendary and Instagram-friendly landmark Lekamøya. We parked by the farm at Haug and followed the hiking path through forest and varied terrain until the landscape opened up to reveal the distinctive monolith. The hike is 2 kilometers long and takes about an hour at a relaxed pace.

Årsdalssanden beach

The perfect break during your Leka exploration. Whether you’re after a refreshing dip, a scenic picnic, or a game of volleyball, Årsdalssanden is worth a visit. This 400-meter-long beach is easy to get to and offers benches, a firepit, and a volleyball net. After a mountain hike, it’s the perfect spot to relax and recharge. It’s also a great detour if you’re doing a roundtrip of the island.

foto: ellen homstad

Skei cultural landscape

One of Leka’s biggest surprises was the cultural landscape at Skeisnesset. We stopped by with a few hours to spare before our ferry, and I’m so glad we didn’t miss the coastal trails in this area. Skei has been given special status due to its unique biological and cultural value. Here you’ll find coastal heathlands, monumental burial cairns, and stunning views of the landscape and the distant Heilhornet mountain. There are over 60 information boards along the trail where you can learn about local history, culture, and species of the area. Be sure to stop by the Steinhytta (Stone Cabin) and Ivarshalleren viewpoint to enjoy views over the open sea, the cultural landscape, and Leka’s distinctive red mountains.

foto: ellen homstad

Transport

We completed this travel itinerary as a drive, which is the best option if you want flexibility with both timing and destinations, whether you’re driving a car, motorcycle, or campervan.

To reach Jøa, drive the roads FV 769 and 777 from Namsos. A ferry runs from Ølhammeren to the island. The drive from Trondheim takes about 3 hours and 30 minutes. The ferry is free and only takes five minutes to cross. You’ll find updated ferry schedules on Torghatten’s website.

If you want to start your trip on Leka, follow the roads E6 and FV 17 from Trondheim to Gutvik ferry terminal. The drive takes about 4 hours and 45 minutes, and the ferry to Leka takes 20 minutes. Schedules are available on Torghatten’s website.

If you prefer to leave the car at home, public transport is also a great way to explore the coast. You can take a train and bus from Trondheim to Namsos. The train goes to Steinkjer, where a connecting bus to Namsos awaits. From Namsos, express boat route 980 takes you to Jøa, Rørvik, and Leka. On some days, the express boat also stops at Sør-Gjæslingan, giving you a chance to experience the Namdal coast from the sea. You’ll find updated bus and boat schedules at AtB’s website.

The coastal landscape is also perfect for cyclists during the summer months. Both Jøa and Leka are idyllic biking destinations. It is as if Jøa was created to be explored from the bike seat. Bike around the island with stops at viewpoints and restaurants, and don’t miss the beautiful forest trail from Brakstad to Fosnes. Leka is also an ideal island for a biking holiday. As you ride around, the scenery shifts dramatically, from lush greenery to red mountains that feel almost Martian. E-bikes are available to rent at Leka Brygge.