Adventures in Trøndelag’s archipelago

If you’re looking to slow down, experience the culinary culture that coastal Norway has to offer or explore nature and wildlife you should check out the coast of Trøndelag. Join us on a weekend adventure along stunning coastal scenery to the most unique acommodations, charming communities and world-class cuisine. Pack your sense of adventure and your rain jacket, and prepare for a memorable experience

foto: ellen homstad

I grew up on the mainland, keep my feet firmly planted on solid ground and I thrive in the fresh mountain air. The coast, fishing and seagull squeaks are exotic to me, as I haven’t spent much time on the coast. It’s about time to do change that! That is why my friends and I decided to travel to the islands Hitra, Frøya and Sula for the weekend.

foto: ellen homstad

Frøya

Sula

Our first stop was a tiny island community at the edge of the Norwegian Sea. Time passes slower here, and you get close to both nature, weather and people. Sula is an old fishing village off the coast of Frøya, where you can find well-preserved coastal culture and an inclusive local community. To learn more about life on the island we stopped by Sula Fiskeværsmuseum (Sula Fishing Village Museum, where you can read up on local history about the fishing village, its role in the world wars and the biggest flask post collection in the world. We also soon discovered that Sula is rich in art, which you can find at Galleri Staangsund and Galleri Skredeskjæret. A visit to the island is also incomplete without a trip to Sula Lighthouse, the island’s highest point, with panoramic views of the archipelago and the ocean.

Terna Brygge

After only a few hours on the island, we had made friends with several of the locals of the island, and invited for both a cup of coffee and dinner later on in the evening. The place to be on the island for food and community is Terna Brygge, the local restaurant and pub. Here, you’ll be greeted with a cheeky joke, meals based on locally sourced ingredients, tall tales and a solid atmosphere in maybe the coziest pub in the world. During the summer months the restaurant puts on a number of events and concerts here. The locals still tell tales of the infamous ABBA night hosted a summer evening earlier this year.

foto: ellen homstad

Sula Havglamping

When was the last time you felt truly at peace? I can guarantee that you feel it here. Sula Havglaming (Ocean Glamping) is a unique accommodation experience that brings you close to the elements. Few things are as magical as sitting on the terrace, enjoying a cup of tea and see the sun set on the horizon before the starry skies emerge and you can spot the northern lights dancing above the lighthouse. I still believe it is just as calming to hear the rain drum against the bedroom window here. The glamp feels very private, which gives the impression that you have the entire island to yourself. We also could not pass up the opportunity to go for an evening swim in the ocean. High swim temperatures are not a given, but luckily the gamp is only a few steps away for you to heat up in.

All foto: foto: ellen homstad

Frøya eagle safari

It is no secret that the island of Frøya is the white-tailed eagles kingdom, and driving from the ferry terminal we already spotted a few eagles gliding across the skies. The experience is still entirely different when you get the opportunity to go out into the archipelago by boat to experience the majestic birdlife up close. Ronny Teigås, an experienced guide with extensive knowledge of the area, took us out among the islets and skerries to visit several of the eagle families that reside in the area. During the tour we learned more about the white-tailed eagles and got to observe them in their natural habitat. This tour is perfect for the photography enthusiast, as it offers plenty of opportunities to capture incredible shots of the eagles. The tour also comes with an eagle guarantee, and we have to mention that we spotted the first eagle of the tour even before we had time to put on our lifejackets.

Tip: you are able to borrow drysuits on the tour but make sure to still bring warm clothing such as wool base layers and shell clothing as you will be on a high-speed boat in the ocean where the weather can quickly turn.

Hotel Frøya

Some hotels are just a place to sleep, whereas others offer a complete experience. Hotel Frøya fall into the second category. Here you can find a comfortable bed and valuable local tourism advice, but the thing that made the biggest impression on us what that we got served the best lunch I have ever had in my life. The hotel is located in the heart of Trøndelag’s best ingredients, and they have mastered the art of transforming local produce to world-class culinary experiences. The kitchen uses locally sourced ingredients like fish, scallops and berries. When they heard that some of us were vegetarian, the chef himself went out to pick chantarelles, which he served us as a part of the tailored meal the following day. We can’t say anything but that the entire experience was *chef’s kiss*.

foto: ellen homstad

Hitra

The Floating Suite

Have you ever dreamt about literally staying the night in a suite on the water? Here you have the ability to do just that! The Floating Suite is an overnight experience out of the ordinary. We got transported by boat from Kvenvær harbour and spent the night amongst the waves in the archipelago (without the risk of getting seasick). There are kayaks, a boat with outboard motor, and fishing equipment on the cabin. This is a perfect spot for snorkelling and freedriving as you can jump out into the sea from the balcony, and there are an abundance of sea weeds, anemones and fish under the suite. We also spotted birds and wildlife from the suite, and it is rumoured that your closest neighbour here is a family of otters. We found serenity from being this close to nature, and I already can’t wait to come back here.

foto: ellen homstad

Badstua (The Sauna)

Back in the harbour of Kvenvær we stopped by Badstua (the sauna). This is the perfect place for those seeking a steaming hot form of relaxation in a hot tub and sauna, but also an ideal spot for ice plunging in safe surroundings during the winter months. The temperature in the sauna easily reaches 80 degrees Celsius, and the sea offers a refreshing break in between the sauna sessions. Badstua has its own diving tower, and we quickly lost count of how many times we jumped from here.

Tip: give the owners a heads up a few hours before you arrive, so that the sauna is heated and ready to go by the time you arrive.

foto: ellen homstad

Transport

We completed this travel route as a road trip. It is most suited to be done by car, motorbike or campervan if you want flexibility in both departure times and destinations along the way. If you come from abroad, the closest international airport is Værnes, located near Trondheim. You can pick up a rental car at the airport, and the drive out to Hitra is approximately 2,5 hours. The road to Hitra, Frøya and Sula is Fylkesvei 714 from Orkanger. Both Hitra and Frøya can be reached without ferry, as they are connected to the mainland through tunnels. On the way to Hitra you will drive through one of the world’s deepest underwater tunnels, the Hitra Tunnel.

To reach Sula you catch a ferry from Dyrøy, a ferry terminal on western Frøya. You can bring your car to the island, but as it is not very small you can also get by on foot and choose to park your car by the ferry terminal. The drive here from the airport is almost 3 hours. The ferry ride takes between 20 and 90 minutes, depending on whether the ferry stops by other islands in the archipelago along the way. The ferry terminal on Sula is located 3 kilometres from the town, but there are also speed boats that drop you off in Sula’s town harbour. Updated ferry time tables can be found on Torhatten.no/en.

If you prefer to not drive, public transport are also a viable option to explore the islands. You can take the speedboat from Trondheim to Hitra Hurtigbåtterminal (speedboat terminal) which is located on Sandstad. Enjoy the journey along the water through the Trondheim Fjord. When you arrive on the terminal you can find corresponding buses that take you to Hitra, Frøya and Dyrøy ferry terminal. It is also possible to catch the bus from Trondheim to Hitra. Updated bus and boat timetables can be found at atb.no/en/timetables/oyregionen/hitra/.

If there are no buses it is also possible to organise on-demand transportation. This is an offer adapted to travel to and from specific bus, boat and train departures, as well as town centres, culture and sport happenings. Contact AtB a week before departure to organise the transportation.

The landscape on the island is as made to be explored on bike, especially during the summer months. There are several spots on the islands that offer bikes for rent, such as Dolmsundet Marina and Angelamfi Hitra. The bike route around Hitra is 45 kilometers, but there are also shorter rounds such as the bridge route on 10 kilometres via Dolmsundbrua and Vettastraumbrua.

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